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Exploring Salzburg’s Mozart Trail: From His Piano to His Favorite Café

by Madonna

A wide-eyed 13-year-old boy gazes at the viewer from beneath a Baroque wig. At this young age, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart—commonly referred to as Mozart—was already a professional musician. Dressed in a vibrant red gala outfit, he sits at a harpsichord, evoking thoughts of his playful melodies. This particular piece of art, titled Mozart In Verona, has been preserved since it was painted in 1770.

“The portrait was auctioned off a few years ago for an astonishing €4.6 million (RM21.56 million),” explains Linus Klumpner, the director of the Salzburg Mozart Museum in Austria. “After extensive negotiations, the new owner in Asia has kindly agreed to loan it to us permanently.”

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Today, this portrait is proudly displayed in Mozart’s eight-room home, where his family resided starting in 1773. Eager tourists can view the original piano, which features only 61 keys instead of the typical 88. The spirit of the maestro still resonates in this spacious ballroom.

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Numerous locations throughout Salzburg transport visitors back to Mozart’s time. The Magic Flute Lodge, an authentic piece that has been showcased in the museum’s courtyard since 2024, is steeped in legend. According to lore, Mozart was locked inside the lodge to ensure he completed his opera The Magic Flute on schedule.

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This beloved opera has been a staple of the Salzburg Marionette Theatre since 1952. Puppeteer Heidi Holzl has performed the piece over a thousand times. “I always find something new to appreciate about Mozart,” says the 81-year-old Holzl. “His music never ceases to inspire me.”

Visitors can get a closer look at the intricately crafted puppets during guided tours of the theatre’s backstage and workshop. Strings dangle close together, as if the puppets are waiting for their next performance. Mozart, known for his playful nature, would have loved this whimsical setting.

Mozart enthusiasts from around the globe flock to the renowned address of Getreidegasse 9 in Salzburg’s historic center. It was in the yellow house here, where the musical genius was born in 1756, that he began composing at the tender age of four.

Visitors immerse themselves in the family life of the Mozarts, learning about his father Leopold, the family’s driving force, his musically gifted mother, and his sister Maria Anna, along with Pimperl, their cherished dog.

The exhibits include Mozart’s childhood violin, a lock of his hair, and miniature portraits of him. Yet, as Andrea Eder points out, no one can say for certain what Mozart truly looked like. “He wasn’t conventionally handsome; he had a prominent nose, pockmarked skin, and slightly bulging eyes.”

For instance, the statue of Mozart erected in 1842 at Mozartplatz in Salzburg bears little resemblance to the great musician, who was not particularly tall.

The androgynous statue Homage To Mozart, created by sculptor Markus Luepertz and located along the banks of the River Salzach, does not attempt to replicate his likeness either.

Nonetheless, certain astonishing facts about his musical legacy are well-established. “We know that Mozart made his debut at the Residenz when he was just seven,” shares Andrea Stockhammer, director of the DomQuartier Salzburg museum complex.

Mozart later served as concertmaster of the court orchestra for the prince-archbishops. In this context, it is unsurprising that 70% of his works created in Salzburg were religious compositions.

“He performed on the organ,” notes art mediator Angelika Widerin, gesturing toward one of the smaller organs in Salzburg Cathedral. Visitors can easily envision the diminutive Mozart—standing at just 1.5 meters tall—filling the cathedral’s vast nave with his music.

As a court musician, Mozart frequently visited the opulent Baroque state rooms in the Old Residence, where he was commissioned by the clergy to compose music for various ceremonial and everyday occasions. He also conducted an orchestra of over a hundred musicians. Like modern visitors, Mozart likely admired the lavish ceiling paintings from time to time.

The Salzburg Festival would be unimaginable without the contributions of this so-called child prodigy. “Mozart is one of the festival’s foundational pillars,” says Margarethe Lasinger, head of the festival’s archive.

Since 2024, artifacts from the world’s most prestigious classical music festival have been housed in a villa located in Salzburg’s Riedenburg district. The theatre’s archive features drawers filled with schedules, posters, booklets, and stage directions, while the sequined black and blue velvet costume worn by the Queen of the Night in The Magic Flute takes center stage.

After his daily duties, Mozart would often rush to his favorite café, now known as Tomaselli, which claims to be the oldest café in Austria. The inviting aroma of coffee and pastries fills the air, likely stimulating the appetite of Mozart, who was known for his love of good food.

Mozart remains a beloved composer for opera singer Cecilia Bartoli, the artistic director of the Salzburg Whitsun Festival. She has added the lesser-known Mozart opera La Clemenza di Tito to the festival’s repertoire, a historical piece set against a contemporary political backdrop.

“This serious theme fits perfectly with our stage in the House of Mozart,” remarks Markus Hinterhauser, director of the Salzburg Festival.

During the festival, stages at the Grosses Festspielhaus and Kleines Festspielhaus, now called the House of Mozart near Felsenreitschule, attract classical music enthusiasts.

One local taxi driver, originally from Somalia, admits he has never attended one of Mozart’s operas, but he is familiar with the handmade dark chocolates made from pistachios, marzipan, and nougat. These local delicacies are exported in the millions, reflecting the widespread Mozart fandom. “I love Mozartkugeln,” he confesses.

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